From Idea to Rack: A Complete Guide to Product Development, Merchandising & Sampling in Indian Fashion Brands

In the ever-evolving Indian fashion landscape, building a successful collection is more than just creative genius—it's a careful balance of product development, merchandising planning, and order execution. Whether you’re a budding designer or a growing fashion brand, understanding these interconnected pillars is key to scaling your business sustainably

1. Product Development: From Concept to Sample

Product development is the heart of any fashion brand—it transforms a moodboard into a tangible garment. This journey includes trend research, material sourcing, silhouette development, and prototyping.

 Steps in Product Development:

Stage	Description	Example (Indian Brand)
Trend Research	Study global and local trends, forecast colors, silhouettes	Masaba Gupta merges Indian kitsch with Western silhouettes
Moodboard Creation	Visual direction for collection	Anavila uses earthy palettes, nature themes
Fabric Sourcing	Identify seasonal, cost-effective fabrics	Raw Mango uses handwoven silks from Benaras
Sketching & Tech Packs	Technical drawings + garment specs	Digital flat sketches & detailed measurements
Proto Sample	Initial sample to check form and fit	FableStreet tests officewear fit on diverse body types

2. Merchandising Planning: Assortment Meets Market Logic

Merchandising is where creativity meets commercial viability. It involves planning the right mix of styles, price points, sizes, and colors tailored to the target market.

Merchandising Checklist:

• Assortment Plan: Segment into tops, bottoms, dresses, occasionwear, etc.

• Good-Better-Best Pricing Strategy: Offer SKUs across entry, core, and premium bands

• Platform-specific Strategy: Adjust assortment for D2C, Nykaa, or Pernia’s

• MOQ and Lead Time Planning: Align with manufacturer capacity

• Seasonal Calendar Mapping: Drop-wise planning for festive, wedding, or summer seasons

• Example:

  House of Fett plans capsule collections for Myntra (₹3–6K) and showcases couture-inspired limited edition lines for its D2C site (₹12–18K).

Pro Tip: Keep a 60:30:10 ratio for core styles, fashion-forward capsules, and experimental runway pieces.3. Sampling Basics: Your First Proof of Concept

Sampling is the bridge between product development and production. It ensures that the design is feasible, cost-effective, and production-ready.

Types of Samples:

Sample Type	Purpose	Notes
Proto Sample	Basic design & silhouette approval	Often unlined or incomplete
Fit Sample	Checks garment fit & drape	Must be tested on live models
Size Set	Tests all sizes	Usually S, M, L, XL or 36–44
Salesman Sample	Used in B2B sales meetings or shoots	Perfectly finished
Pre-Production Sample (PPS)	Final check before bulk	Must be signed off for quality

Example:

Okhai, which works with rural artisans, tests embroidery density and color bleeding during sample stage to ensure production matches the handcrafted quality.4. Order Execution: From Sampling to Shipping

Once samples are approved, execution begins—this is where operations and communication matter most.

Order Execution Workflow:

1. PO (Purchase Order) Finalization

2. Material Procurement (Fabrics, Trims, Tags)

3. Cutting and Stitching Coordination

4. Inline Quality Checks

5. Final QC + Packing

6. Dispatch & Delivery to Marketplace/DC

Order Execution Workflow:

1. Example:

   Suta Bombay, known for its sustainable saris, uses staggered production with artisan clusters and closely monitors packing and labeling standards for Amazon and Nykaa Fashion.

   Conclusion: A Symbiotic Cycle

   Fashion is not just about beautiful design—it's a business of precision, planning, and partnerships. For Indian fashion brands, building that delicate balance between handcraft and market demand requires strong sampling systems, detailed merchandise planning, and agile order execution.

Remember: The best brands don’t just design—they deliver with consistency, quality, and market alignment.