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this editon uses the foundation patterns to make the most important and basic types of style patterns. There canbe many style variations, but only a few basic ways a piece of material canbe cut into to make a style, from the patternmaker's point of view. Collars will have one type of roll or another;a sleeve can be handled only in certain basic 'ways;the procedure for making gathers is the same whether for a waist, a skirt or a sleeve. The principles of cuttingunderlying these basic types is the concernhere. They have been kept as general and flexible as possible, suitable for all types of garments in all size ranges. Rigid measurements have been avoided as unnecessary. The relationships between the instructions for the various parts of the garment have been carefully noted. 

FUNDAMENTALS OF PATTERN MAKING FOR WOMEN'S APPAREL by Esther Kaplan Pivnick

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